Friday, 19 January 2018

Persolaise Review: L'Oudh from Tauer Perfumes (Andy Tauer; 2017)


One of the statements made most often in assessments of the success of Apple is that, in terms of coming up with a certain product or idea, the company was rarely first. Instead, its creative forces looked at what everyone else was doing and then found a way to do it better. That’s precisely what came to my mind as I started wearing Andy Tauer’s L’Oudh. The Swiss perfumer is late to the agarwood party. As you’ll all be aware, it is now far easier to count how many brands don’t feature an oud scent in their portfolio than it is to list those which do. (And the former are constantly growing smaller in number; keep your nostrils flared for imminent news of another house that’s decided to succumb to that Middle Eastern allure.) However, Tauer has never bothered much with trends, which means he’s in an excellent position to consider the oud phenomenon at his own pace and formulate a very personal response to it.

Monday, 15 January 2018

Persolaise Love At First Scent Episode 11 On YouTube


This year's first episode of Love At First Scent was broadcast on Facebook Live on Friday and it has now been uploaded to YouTube. As ever, you can watch it above or by clicking here. In this instalment I covered

Candy Sugar Pop from Prada (at the start of the video)
Vanille Fatale from Tom Ford Private Blend (at the 13:30 minute mark)
Vio Volta from DS & Durga (at the 25:00 minute mark)
Villa M from Paul Schutze (at the 41:00 minute mark)
Ummagumma from Bruno Fazzolari (at the 53:30 minute mark)

As per usual, the original video is still on Facebook. Click here to watch it.

Persolaise

Wednesday, 10 January 2018

Persolaise Interviews Christopher Chong In The Latest Nez + Next Facebook Live This Friday


"I don't think any of my perfumes are strange, maybe because I live with them every single second of my life. It's like having a child. Even if your child is a little bit odd, you don't see it. They seem normal to you. I have heard a lot of people telling me that my perfumes are not that easy to understand. But that is what I want to do. At least I have the guts to push the olfactive palette, like people used to do in the last century. And I want the customers to work hard with me and take the time to understand the journey."
I'm genuinely proud to announce that the latest issue of Nez magazine, available in both French and English, features a piece I wrote about Amouage's Creative Director, Christopher Chong. Needless to say, it also contains several other articles worthy of your time, so if you'd like to find out how you can get your hands on a copy, please click here.

Don't forget that I'm hoping to broadcast the eleventh episode of Love At First Scent on Facebook Live (click here) on Friday 12th January at 2:30 pm UK time (9:30 am New York time). I plan to start with the new Private Blend from Tom FordVanille Fatale. Please try to tune in.

Persolaise

Monday, 8 January 2018

Vanilla Perfume Recommendations - Persolaise On Feelunique + Next Love At First Scent On Friday 12th January

image: Feelunique

In my new article for Feelunique, I've turned to one of the oldest - and, arguably, one of the most divisive - perfumery ingredients: vanilla. To see which sticky delights made it into the piece, please click here.

The fates permitting, the eleventh episode of Love At First Scent - this year's first - will be broadcast on Facebook Live (click here) on Friday 12th January at 2:30 pm UK time (9:30 am New York time). In response to my followers on Instagram, I've decided to open the episode with the latest Private Blend from Tom Ford: Vanille Fatale. I'm getting nervous already...

Persolaise

Friday, 5 January 2018

Scent Imitates Art - Basenotes Interview With Evody's Cerine Vasseur & Perfumer Cecile Zarokian

image: Basenotes
Vasseur (left) with Zarokian

"What abstract artists did was to use shapes and colours. I thought that if I had to transpose abstraction into my field, my art, it would be to use my ingredients without representing anything in particular. So it would be non-figurative. It's very tricky, actually. Because it's about balance. You focus on the fragrance and the emotions it gives you, without being able to say it's about rose or jasmine. I think you could say it's citrusy, or it's floral, or woody or green. But besides that, you can't say which kind of flower or wood or spice is in it."
A couple of weeks ago, Basenotes published my interview with Cerine Vasseur (co-founder of Evody) and Cecile Zarokian (creator of the brand's latest trio of scents). To read the full interview, please click here.

Persolaise

Friday, 29 December 2017

The Best Perfumes Of 2017 - Tobacco, Witches & Unmade Beds


I'm told 'busy' is now the word we most commonly use in response to 'How have you been?' (apparently just saying 'Very well' smacks of some kind subversive, trouble-making, rat-race-denying laziness), but it's difficult for me to find another way of describing the last 12 months. Still, as I always point out to friends, there's 'good busy' and there's 'bad busy', and I like to think that I've had more of the former than the latter. Certainly, Persolaise.com and all its satellite activities have kept me occupied. In addition to all the reviews and articles here, I created a channel on YouTube, I started a series of broadcasts on Facebook Live and I even managed to take my love of perfume and movies to BBC Radio 4's Film Programme.

Friday, 22 December 2017

Christmas Wishes 2017


We've nearly made it, folks: another year is about to end. I'll be posting my annual Best Of list on Friday 29th December (so please come back to read it) but until then, I just wanted to wish you and yours all the very best for the festive season. Enjoy lots of food, spend time with those you hold dear, laugh as hard as you can... and wear your favourite perfume!

Have a joyous Christmas,

Persolaise

Thursday, 21 December 2017

Cinema Scent: Marjorie Prime (dir. Michael Almereyda; 2017)


A part of me wants to say that the makers of Marjorie Prime missed a trick, but I realise that would just be a case of giving into churlishness. Because even though it doesn’t engage with the olfactory world as fully as it could have - given its story - the film is a praiseworthy achievement, deserving of much more publicity than it seems to be getting at the moment.

Wednesday, 20 December 2017

Persolaise Love At First Scent Episode 10 On YouTube + Catch Me On BBC Local Radio Tonight


Last Sunday I broadcast this year's final episode of Love At First Scent - the 10th in the series - and I've now uploaded it to YouTube, so you can either watch it above or by clicking here. In this instalment I covered

Beach Hut Woman from Amouage (at the start of the video)
Black Heart from Map Of The Heart (at the 16:00 minute mark)
L'Oudh from Tauer Perfumes (at the 29:00 minute mark)
Koeptys from Nejma (at the 33:00 minute mark)

As ever, the original video is still on Facebook. Click here to watch it.


Finally, I'd just like to mention that, all being well, I should appear on Georgey Spanswick's show on BBC Local Radio at about 7:30 pm (UK time) tonight, discussing the year's best perfumes. To listen online, please click here.

Persolaise

Tuesday, 19 December 2017

Persolaise Mini-Reviews: July to September 2017 [part 2]


Here comes part 2 of the latest digest of my mini-reviews. For part 1, please click here.

Bamboo Rose from Aerin (2017)*
One of a trio of rose 'colognes' (which is probably supposed to mean that they're relatively light rose scents). This one heads into white floral territory, combining the eponymous note with musks and jasmine. Very '4 o'clock tea on the verandah, darling'. And the size of the bottle means you don't mind spraying the stuff quite liberally not just upon your person but into your surroundings as well.

AB Cashmere from Uèr Mì (Jean Jacques; 2014)*
Cooling, beige, sticky, dessert-like vanilla + osmanthus over LARGE musks. More about temperature than fabric. Humdrum.

WE Tweed from Uèr Mì (Jean Jacques; 2014)*
Curiously colourless amber, with an inky wetness at the top. Like tweed, seems to absorb light, but similarity ends there.

OH Denim from Uèr Mì (Phillipe Bousseton; 2014)*
Hmmm, denim is a gentle white floral? Shows how subjective this game is. Maybe it’s a cutesy, flower-embroidered jacket.

Monday, 18 December 2017

My Personal Perfume Wardrobe - Persolaise Video On Feelunique's YouTube Channel


For my final Feelunique video, I was asked to talk about a few scents which I actually wear: personal favourites that feature in my scent wardrobe. This gave me an opportunity not just to mention classics from Guerlain and Dior, but also to include gems from Tauer, Neela Vermeire and Vero Profumo.

I hope you enjoy the video. If you'd like to watch it on the YouTube site, please click here.

Persolaise

Friday, 15 December 2017

Persolaise Sixty Second Scents: Oud Wood Intense from Tom Ford (2017)


For my next Sixty Second Scents review, I've picked up the new Oud Wood Intense from Tom Ford; please click here if you'd like to watch the video on the YouTube site.

I also wanted to give you a quick heads-up about this year's final instalment of Love At First Scent, which'll be broadcast on Facebook Live this Sunday, 17th December, at 4 pm UK time (11 am New York time). I hope you'll be able to tune in.

Finally, if you'd like to hear my thoughts on the scents and smells of The Silence Of The Lambs, as broadcast on Radio 4's Film Programme yesterday, please click here.

Persolaise

Thursday, 14 December 2017

Cinema Scent On BBC Radio 4 Film Programme: The Silence Of The Lambs (dir. Jonathan Demme; 1991)


I've long considered The Silence Of The Lambs to be one of the most pungent films I've ever seen, which is why I was so excited to discuss it on Francine Stock's Film Programme on BBC Radio 4. To find out what I had to say about the late Jonathan Demme's masterpiece, pour yourself a glass of Chianti and tune in today at 4:00 pm (UK time); you can click here to listen live.

As before, I'll post a link to the podcast here as soon as it becomes available. Here's a link to the programme; my segment is at around the 20 minute mark.

To read the Cinema Scent reviews I've published on this blog, please click here.

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Wednesday, 13 December 2017

10 Must-Try Fragrances For Men - Persolaise Video On Feelunique's YouTube Channel


Next up on my list of collaborations with Feelunique: a showcase of must-try masculine perfumes. Enjoy!

If you'd like to watch the video on the YouTube site, please click here.

Persolaise

Tuesday, 12 December 2017

The Complete Persolaise Christmas Gift Guide 2017


Here we go, ladies and gents. Time to put aside our views about the evils of consumerism and indulge in unadulterated, materialistic pleasure. Below you'll find all my gift recommendations for this year, which have appeared on Twitter over the last few days with the #PersolaiseXmas tag.

Happy giving!

Monday, 11 December 2017

10 Must-Try Fragrances For Women - Persolaise Video On Feelunique's YouTube Channel


The other videos I recorded with the team at Feelunique have now appeared on their YouTube channel, so I'll link to them over the course of the next few days. First up: my recommendations for must-try feminine perfumes.

If you'd like to watch the video on the YouTube site, please click here.

Persolaise

Friday, 8 December 2017

Persolaise Review: Elements Of Man - Strength from Ermenegildo Zegna (2017)


I haven’t given Strength the muscle it deserves. But I’m determined not to let the year end without mentioning it. One of five scents in Zegna’s high-end Elements Of Man range (well worth checking out as a whole) it’s focussed on a gentlemanlike tobacco note that couldn’t be further removed from the mind-crushing, cardboard-cutout creations which so many brands aim at men these days. Playing skilfully on hints of the illicit - there are strong echoes of film noir intrigue here - it links its central note with honey, green facets and a suave, almost powdery labdanum in the base to create a thoroughly grown-up effect that dares young hipsters to ditch their silly pretences and display some real character. Thankfully, the days when smoking was associated with manliness are behind us. But Strength is a nicotine-free reminder of why that particular idea remained so potent for so long. Highly recommended.

[Review based on a sample of eau de parfum provided by Ermenegildo Zegna in 2017]

Persolaise

Monday, 4 December 2017

Persolaise Love At First Scent Episode 9 On YouTube


Episode 9 of Love At First Scent - complete with poinsettia - is now on YouTube. Watch it above or by clicking here. In this edition I covered

Wonder Bouquet from Mugler (at the start of the video)
the Smoked Leather candle from Urban Apothecary (at the 15:00 minute mark)
Dent De Lait from Serge Lutens (at the 17:00 minute mark)
Rose De Damas from Buly (at the 42:00 minute mark)
Thé Vert Precieux from Mariage Freres, for Bulgari (at the 51:00 minute mark)
Rose Tubereuse from E Coudray (at the 56:00 minute mark)

The original video is still on Facebook. Click here to watch it.

Persolaise

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